Lanzarote's Volcanic Symphony - Wines Forged in Fire, Crafted by Time
- 29th Aug 2024
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In the heart of Lanzarote, where the raw power of volcanic eruptions has shaped a unique terroir, wine becomes more than just a drink—it transforms into a story of resilience and artistry. This island, known as "Volcano Island," offers a rare glimpse into how wine can thrive amidst the most challenging landscapes, yielding flavors as bold and captivating as the land itself.
From a distance, the landscape seems desolate, with its vast stretches of blackened earth punctuated by mysterious conical hollows. Yet, beneath this seemingly barren surface lies a thriving world of vineyards, where vines flourish against all odds.
The island's transformation began with a series of cataclysmic eruptions between 1730 and 1736, which forever altered the lives of its inhabitants. Villages were engulfed by lava, fertile lands were buried under thick layers of picón, or volcanic ash, and a once-thriving agrarian community was left to grapple with famine and despair. Yet, out of this devastation, a new agricultural marvel emerged—wine production, fueled by the very ash that had threatened to extinguish life on the island.
The Birth of a Unique Wine Region
Wine has flowed through the veins of the Canary Islands since the 15th century, with Tenerife earning early acclaim for its exports. Lanzarote, however, remained a quiet player in the wine world until necessity drove its residents to innovation. Grapevines, it was discovered, could not only survive in the ashen soil but could also thrive, producing wines of remarkable character.
Lanzarote's vineyards receive a mere 150mm of rainfall annually—less than half of what is considered necessary for most of the world's wine regions. The island is also buffeted by fierce trade winds and plagued by the calima, dust storms that sweep in from the Sahara, turning the sky into a sepia haze. In this harsh environment, traditional farming methods were rendered useless, and so, with ingenuity and determination, the island's farmers devised a solution—digging deep conical hollows, known as hoyos, to protect and nourish their grapevines.
These hoyos, coupled with low, semi-circular lava stone walls, act as natural water collectors and shields against the relentless winds. The volcanic ash, far from being a curse, became the vineyard's greatest ally, drawing moisture from the air and regulating soil temperature, thus allowing the vines to flourish where other crops could not.
A Grape of Distinction
At the heart of Lanzarote's wine production is the Malvasía Volcánica grape, a white variety unique to the Canary Islands. This grape, alongside others like Listán Blanco, Vijariego Blanco, and Listán Negro, is the backbone of the island's wine industry. The island's vineyards, some of which boast vines nearly 200 years old, have remained untouched by the phylloxera epidemic that devastated European vineyards in the 19th century, thanks to the protective properties of the volcanic soil.
Despite its challenging environment, Lanzarote's wines are celebrated for their crispness, bold acidity, and unique textural qualities. The island's terroir imparts a distinctive minerality to its wines, leaving a lingering, slightly bitter finish on the palate—a testament to the land from which they spring.
The Human Element:
A Labor of Love Lanzarote's wines are not just products of nature but are deeply intertwined with the tireless efforts of the island's growers. Every step in the vineyard, from planting to harvest, must be done by hand. The conical hollows, though ingeniously designed, require delicate handling, with growers navigating narrow paths to avoid disturbing the fragile structures. The harvest, beginning in the sweltering heat of late July, is a grueling process, with workers carrying heavy crates of grapes across the rugged terrain, repeating the journey countless times.
This labor-intensive process is a testament to the growers' dedication and the deep respect they hold for their craft. Each bottle of Lanzarote wine is imbued with the love and sacrifice of those who tend the vines, making every sip a celebration of human resilience and ingenuity.
A Future Rooted in Tradition
As Lanzarote's wine industry enters what many consider its golden age, the island's winemakers face new challenges, including the looming threat of climate change. Yet, the future of Lanzarote's wines remains bright, driven by a new generation of enologists who carry forward the island's legacy of adaptation and innovation. With an unwavering commitment to quality and a deep connection to the land, these winemakers are poised to ensure that Lanzarote's wines continue to captivate and inspire, offering a taste of history in every glass.
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