The unique brand story of Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin - The Finest chapter in the history of Haute Horlogerie

Picture this: A young boy in a far distant mountainous land of Switzerland sitting beside his father in their workshop and learning the amazing and complicated art of watchmaking. He learns and practices the art and when he is a mere youngster of 23 years old, an entrepreneurial nerve strikes and he starts his own brand in his hometown, Le Locle creating complicated timepieces.

Today, after 174 years we know this brand by the namesake of the founder, Ulysse Nardin. Ulysse Nardin grew up in the mountainous area of Jura Mountains in Switzerland, which is far, far away from the sea and yet his and his brands greatest inspiration till date remains the sea and its nautical world. Ulysse is the ‘it’ brand in the world of sailors, divers and the nautical world due to its popular, precise and complicated marine chronometers.

Ulysse Nardin Logo:

Courtesy : ulysse-nardin.com

The brand is very proud of its history and its popularity in the nautical world. This is quite evident in the brand's logo. The logo is designed to highlight all the key features of the brand. The logo had an anchor between the two words- Ulysse Nardin(the founder).

Even the color scheme of the brand is designed to accentuate their inspiration- Navy Blue and White. Once the brand reached a level of fame and had been in the field of watchmaking for a long time, it added the year it got established to the logo- Since 1846. Besides this, we all have heard of Switzerland for certain reasons, right?

Their Swiss army knives, their classic watches, mouth-melting Lindt chocolates and of course thanks to the Yash Raj Chopra, their snowcapped mountains and beautiful grasslands!

Ulysse Nardin made sure the important element of it being a Swiss watch reaches out and hence, added its place of origin - Le Locle, Suisse.

All the references regarding their experiences and origins come together to tell a potential buyer that Ulysse Nardin is the perfect purchase that you can make and won't regret at all.

Early History:

Ulysse Nardin was born in the year 1823 in Le Locle, Switzerland. At that time, during the long and cold winters, people would have to do something more than just farming to survive, hence In Switzerland, many families would produce timekeeping instruments. Being born in a watchmaking family, Ulysse Nardin started to learn the art as an apprentice under his horologist father, Léonard-Frédéric Nardin, at a very young age. He then went ahead and got his skills sharpened under Frédéric-William Dubois and Louis JeanRichard-dit-Bressel, the masters of precision in watchmaking of their time.

Source : https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/brands/history/h/ulysse-nardin/

In 1846, Ulysse Nardin at a mere age of 23 went ahead and started his own namesake brand with its headquarters in Le Locle, where it’s yet situated. Despite growing in the mountains, Ulysse was inspired by the sea and produced nautical timekeeping instruments. He was the first to produce marine chronometers with such precision and accuracy. He soon became a popular name among the commercial ships and navies around the world. Ulysee Nardin was obsessed with perfection and accuracy and was the best too in his times. In 1860, he purchased an astronomical regulator clock built by Jacques-Frederic Houriet in 1768, so that he could be more accurate in calibrating the timing of his pocket chronometers. His pocket and marine chronometers are yet reference products for the civil, military and scientists.

The company soon gained a reputation for its minute repeaters, complicated watches and pocket chronometers.

During this time the French and English were famous for their horology. Hence, Ulysse went to London to challenge the best pocket chronometers. In 1862, at the International Exhibition of London, he won the Prize Medal for the ‘complicated watches and pocket chronometers’. This prize is considered like the Oscars in horology in the United Kingdom. In 1867, Nardin also obtained its first certificate for marine chronometers from Neuchâtel Observatory.

Source : https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/brands/history/h/ulysse-nardin/

Since then, Ulysse has never stopped and looked back. It has faced its share of lows but it always came back with a more forceful energy filled with innovation, precision and class.

According to the last official report of Neuchâtel Observatory in Switzerland, Ulysse Nardin from the period of 1846 to 1975 has won various awards and honors for its marine chronometers including 4324 certificates out of the 4504 submitted, 2411 special prizes and 18 gold medals at International Exhibitions and World fairs.

Source : https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/brands/history/h/ulysse-nardin/

Sadly, in 1876, Ulysse Nardin died at just the age of 53. He was succeeded by his son, Paul-David Nardin as the head of the company.

Paul-David Nardin was no less than his father and just like Ulysse Nardin went on to perfect the marine chronometer and won various awards and prizes over the years. He was awarded two Swiss patents in 1890, a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition and many more until the 19th century.

Ulysse Nardin and the U.S. Army

Paul-David Nardin helped in miniaturizing many elements in the chronometer and hence created small timepieces which were much easier to carry and use when on board. Hence, they kept on supplying more watches to the military and also won various awards from numerous Astronomical institutions. It was Ulysse’s lifelong desire to cater to the US market and hence his son pursued exactly that and soon became the official supplier for the US navy on board.

The brand has regularly won the Washington Naval Observatory and soon started supplying watches to the US Navy's torpedo boats and gave them case backs with the watch number and engraved upon them was ‘U.S. Navy’

The company has been providing timepieces to various navies across the world like, United States, France, United Kingdom, Russia and Japan. About 50 navies and international shipping companies have been equipped with Ulysse Nardin marine chronometers.

Ulysse Nardin under Rolf Schnyder

Source : https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/brands/history/h/ulysse-nardin/

During the 1970s-1980s came the quartz crisis (upheaval caused due to the advent of the quartz watches which replaced the mechanical watches.)This largely affected the Swiss watchmaking industry that chose to focus on the age-old art of mechanical watchmaking. But when Rolf W. Schnyder purchased the company in 1983, even this setback turned into an opportunity and the brand grew bigger. Schnyder together with the brilliant watchmaker, Ludwig Oechslin, were successful in reviving the brand. They focused on creating timeless, classic watches with modern materials like silicium and techniques.

On the occasion of the brand's 150th anniversary, Ludwig Oechslin designed the first marine chronometer wristwatch “Marine Chronometer 1846” and the first perpetual calendar called the “Perpetual Ludwig”.

Source : https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/brands/history/h/ulysse-nardin/

Together, Schnyder and Ludwig have produced some of the biggest masterpieces in the watchmaking industry, including the trilogy watches, Astrolabium Galileo Galilei, Planetarium Copernicus, and the Tellurium Johannes Kepler.

Source : https://www.hautehorlogerie.org/en/brands/history/h/ulysse-nardin/

In 2001, one of the most famous watches of Ulysse Nardin, the Freak was unveiled which held several patents in technology. Since the start of the 21st century, Ulysse Nardin has been one of the most creative and innovative brands and there was no stopping.

By 2006, the brand started its journey to a complete in-house manufacturing vertical. That year, Ulysse Nardin released its first ever made-in-house caliber- UN 160. From there onwards, it was a series of various calibers.

Unfortunately, in 2011, the brand was struck by the demise of Rolf Schnder. Schnyder’s foresight and leadership has left an everlasting impression on the company.

Ulysse Nardin- Present:

Even as an independent company for approximately 3 years the company continued its quest for the best. It kept on introducing iconic timepieces which were full of wonder and extraordinary technicality. The reason for this is mainly the company’s determination to excel in its in-house craft. After Schnyder’s death, his wife along with long time CEO, Patrik P. Hoffmann took over the management of the company. Under their leadership, in 2011, the brand also acquired a Swiss enameller workshop, Donzé Cadrans. This venture provided the brand to use enamels in its watches.

In 2014, Ulysse Nardin was acquired by the Kering Group under the Luxury Watches and Jewellery Divisions. The company now has manufacturing units at three places, La Chaux-de-Fonds (R&D and movement production site), Le Locle (headquarters) and Sion (For producing micro elements like silicium).

While the brand excels and specializes in marine chronometer wristwatch, it’s expanding its horizons to luxurious and sophisticated watches for both men and women and Kering wholly supports the brands course of innovation and independence. Ulysse Nardin is now a part of the exclusive circle of Swiss watchmaking, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie.

Finest Watches of Ulysse Nardin

With an untamable inventiveness, Ulysse Nardin has over 174 years come up with ultra-high precision timepieces which have left an ever-lasting impression. The brand has many models including the most iconic works and is housed within a simple five-pillar framework- the Marine Collection, Diver Collection, Freak Collection, Executive Collection and The Classico Collection.

The Marine Collection celebrates the brands lifelong inspiration to the nautical world and chronometers. The Diver Collection is for all the sea adventurers. The Executive is the sophisticated collection with its ingenious technicality and design watches. The Classico collection pays a beautiful homage to the history and the know-how of watchmaking. The Freak collection is literally a laboratory on the wrist.

Few of the finest watches of Ulysse Nardin are :

1. The Stranger:

Source : https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/

The Stranger has a working music box inside it. With only 99 pieces created of the first Stranger watch, this watch played Frank Sintara’s classic- Strangers in the Night. The watch had a 45 mm diameter, an alligator strap, 64 precious gems and 19 karat gold case. This Ulysse Nardin watch was valued at  $112,000.

2. Freak Out:

Source : https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/

There are the standard freak watches by Ulysse Nardin and then there’s Freak Out. This watch has a tourbillon mechanism and a manual-winding watch with a seven day preserve. With a 45mm diameter, the watch encloses a patented ‘Dual Direct’ escapement wheels in friction free silicon. All watches in the freak collection do not have a crown. The dial has a sapphire crystal glass that protects the watch from water up to 30m with a sailcloth strap which makes it very durable and appealing to look at.

3. The Trilogy Set:

Source : masterhorologer.com

The renowned Ulysse Nardin Trilogy Set comprises three limited edition watches. All three watches in the set — the Astrolabium, Planetarium, and Tellurium are made of platinum and are the epitome of sophistication. It's known for its intricate detailing and accuracy. The first watch, The Astrolabium was created by Ludwig Oechslin in 1985. The second, The Planetarium was unveiled in 1985 and finally the Tellurium premiered in 1992. With only 99 sets created, the value of these watches reflects its rarity.

4. Safari Minute Repeater:

Source : nytimes.com

This beautiful hand painted watch depicts exotic animals like a monkey, lion, elephant and a giraffe all set against a lush background of greenery, flowers and water. The design is accentuated by a platinum case and an alligator strap. The watch has two dials so as to create a 3D look. Like many other Ulysse Nardin watches, this is water resistant up to 30 meters with a value of approx. $325,000.

5. The Royal Blue Tourbillon:

Source : watchalyzer.com

To one of the most expensive watches from their collection, this watch is valued at $1.1 million. Synonymous with luxury, this watch is encrusted with 568 baguette diamonds. The watch also has 234 baguette-cut blue sapphire gems, one cabochon sapphire and eight diamonds on the crown. Besides being a stunner to look at and an excellent performer, this watch is water resistant up to 30 meters.

6. Genghis Khan

Source : renderwatch.com

A watch that definitely any watch collector would itch to have in his collection. This Genghis Khan watch is available in four different versions, the difference being the color scheme. The watch is encrusted with diamonds, a black onyx dial with an alligator strap. It depicts the historic battle scene. This watch was the first ever watch to have a Westminster chime, a tourbillon, automatons and a minute repeater. When one would engage with the repeater or the chime would go off, the scene on the dial would get animated and shows the engraved figures fighting with their swords. This elaborate wrist watch has a value of over $765,000.

Conclusion:

In 1846, Ulysse Nardin had embarked on a journey- to achieve, to innovate and invent something so wondrous. It has been successful over the years to push the limits of time. Their constant aim to achieve higher and create more invaluable timepieces got me adoring the brand. They’ve stayed true to their traditions and heritage despite facing issues and have stood strong and this is seen in their classic designs of the watches. Ulysse Nardin is one of the few brands who continue the production of hairsprings and escapements traditionally in-house.

Even though it’s lesser known in the world, it yet is one of the most loved brands in the nautical world and all for its precision and innovation.