Why Do Luxury Jewelry Designers Favour Natural Diamonds?

Throughout history, diamonds have been so strongly associated with power, love, royalty, spirit and magic, that even today, they are seen as a well-established symbol of wealth and luxury. While diamonds are desired by many around the world, there are very few countries which actually mine to meet the global demand. Botswana, Angola, South Africa, Canada, Russia and Australia are some of the leading countries that mine natural diamonds. However, synthetic and simulated diamonds are trying to disrupt the market. There are certain qualities that differentiate a rare, natural diamond from a lab-grown simulated one.

Firstly, simulated diamonds are different in chemical and physical properties from their natural counterparts. Essentially, simulated diamonds are only copies of the real deal and thus, only their appearance matches. This takes away from the rarity and exclusiveness that real diamonds provide. Moreover, natural diamonds go through an entire process of mining, cutting, polishing and so on, which makes it more exquisite. For instance, commercially viable diamond mines are scarce. Today, 62% of the world's production of diamonds (by carat) is by just 11 mines. Compare this to the simulated diamonds that are lab grown; no wonder luxury jewellery designers prefer natural diamonds.

Sri Lankan craftsman at work (Source : pixabay.com)

Furthermore, there are about 133 million carats of rough diamonds mined annually. The very few diamond producers control the market and the main players are - De Beers (35%), Russian producer Alrosa(20%), and diversified mining companies BHP Billiton and Rio Tinto. The commercially viable diamond mines are so hard to find that the last major one was discovered in Zimbabwe in 1997. Even then, there is plenty of mining to do before you hit the jackpot.

Once the diamonds are mined, they move to the cutting and polishing stage. Nowadays, diamonds are cut using computer programs to find the most efficient way however, most rough diamonds still lose 50-60% of their weight here. This makes for an expensive process. The diamonds are now ready to be sold to jewellery manufacturers. This is where luxury jewellery designers at Cartier, Tiffany, Gucci, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Bulgari come in to buy, manufacture as well as brand and retail.

Cartier bracelets (Source : picclick.com)

While all these reasons point to a logical choice to pick natural diamonds over simulated ones, there are many emotional reasons too. A diamond that has been formed in a laboratory cannot compare to a natural diamond with a long history of its source. Luxury jewellery designers prefer to create classic, timeless pieces which can be handed down to generations. This adds to the charm of the diamond as not just a piece of jewellery but also, a family heirloom.

Moreover, only natural diamonds possess the power of retaining their monetary value, and in some cases, surpassing that value as well. High quality, uncommon colours and cuts - all add value to the diamond and over time, it only increases. This is unmatched by the simulated diamonds, another reason why luxury jewellery designers gravitate towards natural ones.

However, the focal argument point against natural diamonds is that of ethical sourcing and sustainability. Jewellery designers prefer to use natural diamonds due to the societal benefits reaped by all. According to Truecost’s Total Clarity 2019 report, natural diamonds have generated a total worth of $3.9 billion in benefits by employing locals. Additionally also creating $6.8 billion in benefits for the communities by purchasing and using local goods and services.

Retailers have passed on the demand of ethically sourced natural diamonds and the suppliers have followed suit. They are trying to make ethically and sustainably mined diamonds easily available for designers as well as consumers. The cycle continues as the locals who work at these mines are well paid and enjoy medical benefits too. As many as 25 countries among multiple continents are a part of this cycle and are affected by it directly.

Meghan Markle’s ring (Source : hellogiggles.com)

Former royal, Meghan Markle’s ring features diamonds from Princess Diana’s personal collection as well as the massive rock from Botswana, a special country for the couple.

Canada, Namibia and Botswana are the top countries which provide full transparency through documentation of their diamonds. This makes the luxury jewellery designer as well as the consumer more aware of their choices and the impact of it. Thus, diamonds from these countries are usually preferred.

Many luxury jewellery brands have come up with their own promises to provide natural diamonds responsibly.

1. Tiffany

We ask more of our suppliers with our Diamond Source Warranty Protocol and only accept diamonds that originate in countries without diamond-related human rights concerns, such as Botswana, Canada, Namibia, Russia and South Africa.

2. Louis Vuitton

The House’s timepiece and jewelry activities have obtained the Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC) certification, and diamonds are Kimberley Process-certified conflict-free.

3. Cartier

At Cartier, we have subjected all our diamond purchases to the System of Warranties since the scheme was introduced in January 2003. We require a Statement of Warranty for every diamond-related invoice we receive.

While simulated diamonds can be an inexpensive alternative and the shine might be able to fool the eyes, it can never match the legacy and story behind a natural diamond. Whether it be the uniqueness of each natural diamond or the multiple processes and hands it goes through to take its final glorious form, the jewellery designers are glad to create and be part of each natural diamond’s history. It is this charm and magic that had people centuries ago, and still has them, smitten by the mere aura of diamonds. After all, a diamond is forever and so is its attraction.